There is a particular satisfaction in gathering armfuls of lavender and marjoram on a still July morning, then hanging them in a cool, dark corner to wait for winter. Drying your own herbs and flowers is one of the oldest rural crafts, and it costs nothing but a little patience. The results fill your home with scent, colour and the quiet promise of spring.
Timing is everything. Choose a morning when the dew has just lifted but the sun has not yet grown hot. Herbs and flowers picked wet will likely turn mouldy; those picked in full heat will fade before they dry. Take a basket rather than a plastic bag, so air can circulate around the stems. For herbs grown for their leaves — rosemary, thyme, sage, marjoram, oregano and mint — cut them just before they flower, when their oils are strongest. For flowers, pick them as soon as they are fully open but before they begin to drop. Lavender is best taken when the buds are swelling and the first few blossoms show colour. Calendula and cornflowers should be gathered in their prime.
Use sharp scissors or secateurs, cutting stems cleanly rather than tearing them. Leave a good length of stem — you will need it for tying bundles later. Shake gently to dislodge insects, but do not wash the plants unless they are muddy. If you must rinse them, pat dry with a tea towel and let them air for an hour before bundling.
The golden rule of drying is: dark, dry and airy. A spare bedroom with the curtains drawn, a cool pantry, or a well-ventilated attic all work well. Avoid kitchens and bathrooms, where steam and cooking smells will ruin the scent. Bunch your stems into small bundles — no more than a finger-thick — and tie them with twine or elastic bands. Loosely is the key word: tight bundles trap moisture and encourage rot. Elastic bands are useful because they contract as the stems shrink.
Hang the bundles upside down from a beam, a drying rack, or a clothes airer. Leave plenty of space between them so air can move freely. For flowers with delicate petals, such as roses or calendula, you can lay them flat on a wire screen or old window frame covered with muslin. Turn them gently every few days. Most herbs take seven to fourteen days to dry; thicker stems may take three weeks. They are ready when the leaves rustle and a stem snaps rather than bends.
Some plants hold their colour and shape far better than others. In a British cottage garden, the following are reliable:
Roses dry better if you hang them individually rather than in bunches, and darker colours tend to hold better than pale pinks. Sweet peas and delphiniums are tempting but usually disappoint; they turn brown and brittle.
Once thoroughly dry, strip the leaves or flowers from the stems and store them in airtight glass jars. Keep the jars in a dark cupboard — light fades colour and scent. Label each jar with the plant name and the date, because dried herbs look surprisingly similar after a few months. For flowers you want to keep whole, lay them in a cardboard box between sheets of tissue paper. Add a few drops of lavender or cedarwood oil to a cotton wool ball in the jar if you want to refresh the scent later. Never store dried plants in plastic bags; they sweat and go musty.
The real pleasure comes when the nights draw in and you can turn your stored harvest into something useful. A few ideas to try:
Working with dried plants is slow, humble and deeply satisfying. It connects the summer garden to the winter fireside, and it asks nothing more than a dry morning, a dark corner and a little patience. That, after all, is the heart of countryside living.
Leave A Comment